Nara in a day – Exploring Hase-dera and Todaiji-temple

The city of Nara is an important part of Japan’s rich history. It was the country’s first capital when it was established in the year 710 and it is also the spiritual home of Buddhism. As a result, there is a lot of ancient history to unlock in this beautiful city. Tourists from abroad and from Japan flock to see the abundance of marvels on offer, so I gave myself a day to explore as much as I could. 

 Hase-dera 

First up on my list was Hase-dera (長谷寺). Located in the mountains east of the Asuka region, this ancient temple was founded in 686. Its vast network has over 30 buildings, which are scattered throughout the side of a mountain. A lot of the structure is partly concealed by trees, leaving visitors to speculate what hidden wonders lie beneath.

Upon entering the main temple complex, you might feel a little lost as to where to start, as extremely large, with paths leading off in numerous directions. To begin, I’d suggest making your way towards the temple’s main hall.

To access the main hall, you’ll need to climb 400 wooden steps. This may sound intimidating, but it gives you the chance to absorb the idyllic surroundings and other temple buildings along the way.

As I climbed, there were many Buddhist monks in traditional robes shuffling quickly through doors, passageways and even playing a woodwind instrument above me while tolling a large bell. It turns out that this isn’t just a place for tourists; it’s also the living quarters for monks. Seeing these monks go about their business in an orderly way brought the temple alive and retained its spiritual essence.

When you arrive at Hasadera’s main hall, you can walk out onto a high-rise platform and see more of the temple complex. It seemed to go on endlessly through the valleys and hills. It was such a glorious sight, and I’m sure it would be even more breath-taking during the spring and autumn seasons when the green colors of the hills will be awash with the pinks of cherry blossoms or the golden glow of autumn leaves.

The centerpiece of the main hall is a twelve-meter tall wooden statue of the Eleven Faced Kannon (or the goddess of mercy), which is 31 ft tall and is said to be one of the biggest wooden statues in Japan. These numerous heads help Kannon to see all around, enabling her to help someone she sees in trouble.

Hasadera is perfect for strolling around aimlessly. Everywhere you turn you’ll be transfixed by something whether it’s a piece of ancient architecture, a dense forest of creaking bamboo trees, or the peaceful sounds of nature. If you want a bit of tranquility, I can’t think of a better place to visit than here.

Todaiji Temple

Located in Nara park (奈良公園), Todaiji Temple(東大寺) was built in 752, and was once Japan’s head Buddhist temple. It’s no surprise that the temple’s entrance is one of the grandest I had ever seen. 

Passing through the main gate, it’s hard not to spot the grand Daibutsuden (Big Buddha Hall) in the distance, which is the world’s largest wooden building. And because it is made out of wood, it’s taken a few knocks over the years as a result of fires and earthquakes. Consequently, the structure today is only two thirds its original size!
This building also houses one of Japan’s largest bronze statues – the Great Buddha of Nara –or the cosmic Buddha. Almost 50 feet tall and weighing almost 500 tons, this statue symbolizes the significance and weight of the history of this beautiful city. 

Many visitors do a quick prayer under his benevolent gaze before exploring the rest of the hall. When it was my turn to pray before it, I got a sense of just how huge the statue was. I had to tilt my neck backwards to get the whole statue in my line of vision.
Flanking the giant Buddha are two towering warriors, who are the guardians of the four corners of the temple. Their fierce expressions may give you the shudders, especially when you sense their eyes following you about the room, protecting the hall at all costs. 

To get a better understanding of the Buddha statue’s size, there’s a large pillar with a hole in its base at the far end of the hall. This hole is the same size as the Buddha’s nostril, and it is said that whoever can squeeze through the hole will be granted enlightenment in their next life.
I saw one man confidently stride up to the hole like a gunslinger, assessed the dimensions, and without hesitation crouched down to fit through the hole. I noticed his family express some concern as he shoved his body into the small space. Their mild worry turned into a full-blown panic, when he became stuck. They began pulling at his wriggling legs, attempting to free him. Moral of the story: This hole seemed best suited for young and nimble kids rather than big fearless adults.

After soaking in the history of the hall, you can wander around the grounds outside. From the belfry, to the avenue of lanterns to other shrines – there’s plenty of enchanting things to see.

The Deer of Nara Park

You’ll also undoubtedly encounter many deer peacefully ambling around the area. The deer in this area are considered to be messengers of the local deities and are therefore thought to be sacred. They are also the symbol of Nara and are therefore allowed to roam free without interference. And because they are revered, you’re encouraged to treat them with special deer crackers (shika senbei, 鹿せんべい), which are sold around the grounds of Todaiji and Nara Park for about 150 yen.
It was entertaining to watch visitors demonstrate a mixture of trepidation as they gingerly handed out a cracker and jump in slight fright as a deer bit into the cracker, finally leading to genuine joy as they got their hand back in one piece. 

As you leave, there are a few souvenir shops, and you’ll no doubt see some odd merchandise displaying the image of a half-Buddhist monk and half deer character. This strange vision is Nara’s Sento-kun yuruchara, which combines the city’s Buddhist traditions and its large deer population. Despite my reservations about the attractiveness of this character, I saw many kids asking their parents for stuffed Sento-kun toys as souvenirs.
Nara is an experience that you will never forget. You can see some of the main delights of Nara in a single day, but there’s so much more to see and do in the ancient capital that requires even further exploration to view all of its wonders. I get the feeling I only scratched the surface! 

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